Poached Quince with Clotted Cream

Quince dessert is one of those winter dishes that feels light without feeling like you skipped dessert.

If you have served a heavy menu — something built around red meat — this is the right way to finish. It cuts through rather than piling on.

Serves 6

Ingredients

3 quinces
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups water
2 cinnamon sticks
5–6 whole cloves
1–2 star anise
1 lemon
2 tablespoons grape molasses (pekmez), or honey

To serve

Clotted cream (kaymak), or mascarpone
Slivered pistachios or chopped walnuts

Method

Peel the quinces, halve them and scoop out the cores. Keep the peels and seeds — they matter, see the note below.

Rub the cut surfaces with lemon and hold them in a bowl of water so they do not brown while you work.

Arrange the quince halves in a wide pot, hollow side up. Divide the sugar among the hollows, then add the cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise and the reserved seeds.

Pour in the water, bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer. Cover and cook for 45 to 50 minutes, until a knife slides in with no resistance.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Lift the quinces out of the poaching liquid and brush the tops with grape molasses.

Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, until glazed and lightly caramelized at the edges.

Transfer to a serving dish and let them cool completely.

Fill the hollows with clotted cream and scatter pistachios or walnuts over the top.

Chef’s note

If you want that deep ruby color, cook the peels and seeds along with the fruit. The tannins and pectin in them are what turn quince red as it cooks — without them you get pale yellow fruit that tastes right but looks unfinished. Tie them in a piece of cheesecloth so they are easy to lift out.