Papoutsakia: Greek Stuffed Eggplant

This one comes from Greece — a cuisine built on centuries of layered history, from Ancient Greece through Byzantium.

Greek cooking shares a great deal with the Turkish food of western Anatolia. Both belong to the same Balkan and Mediterranean family, both lean heavily on olive oil, and Crete adds its own chapter to the story. Papoutsakia — the name means “little shoes,” after the shape — is one of those dishes that could sit on either table.

Serves 4

Ingredients

4 medium eggplants
1 onion, finely diced
1 tomato, seeded and diced
1 egg
2 green peppers, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
Juice of half a lemon
1 cup crumbled feta
Grated kasseri or mozzarella, for the top
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
Salt
Black pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Halve the eggplants lengthwise and place them cut side down on a foil-lined sheet pan. Roast until the flesh is completely soft, about 30 to 35 minutes.

Scoop out the flesh with a spoon and put it in a bowl, then spoon over the lemon juice to keep it from darkening. Work carefully — the shells need to stay intact, because they are the serving vessel. Leave about 1/4 inch of flesh against the skin so they hold their shape.

Set the shells aside and let the scooped flesh drain in a sieve. Eggplant holds a surprising amount of water and if you skip this step the filling will be loose.

Heat the olive oil in a pan and sweat the onion until soft. Add the green peppers, then the garlic last, and cook until translucent.

Add the drained eggplant flesh and cook for a few minutes, stirring.

Add the diced tomato and cook until the liquid has reduced away.

Take the pan off the heat. Stir in the feta, salt and pepper.

Once the mixture has cooled to warm — not hot — beat in the egg. If the filling is too hot the egg will scramble instead of binding.

Fill the eggplant shells with the mixture, mounding it slightly.

Top with grated cheese and a light dusting of flour.

Bake at 400°F until the tops are golden and bubbling, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Let them rest for 10 minutes before serving. Good warm, better at room temperature the next day.