Salonika Eggplant Pie

This comes from Salonika, and it belongs to that band of cooking that runs along the northern Aegean — recognizable on either side of the border, whichever side you grew up on.

Smoked eggplant and beef between two sheets of pastry, baked until golden. Good hot, better at room temperature.

Serves 8

Ingredients

For the filling

6 medium eggplants
1 lb ground beef
1/4 cup water
Salt
Black pepper

For the dough

6 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup water
1 cup vegetable oil
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

To finish

1 egg yolk

Method

Char the eggplants

Wash and dry the eggplants, then pierce them in several places with a skewer so they do not burst.

Char them on a grill, over a gas flame, or under a hot broiler, turning until the skins are blackened all over and the flesh has collapsed completely. This takes 15 to 20 minutes and the skin should look burnt — that is where the flavor comes from.

Peel while still warm and drain the flesh in a sieve for 10 minutes. Eggplant carries a lot of water and a wet filling will make the bottom crust soggy.

Mash to a coarse purée.

Make the filling

Put the ground beef in a pan with the water and cook over medium heat, breaking it up, until the water has evaporated and the meat has browned.

Add the mashed eggplant and stir together.

Season with salt and pepper and cook for another 2 minutes.

Take it off the heat and let it cool completely. Hot filling will melt the dough.

Make the dough

Sift the flour into a bowl with the salt and baking powder.

Add the water and oil and knead until you have a smooth, soft dough. It should be pliable but not sticky — add a little more flour or water as needed.

Let it rest, covered, for 15 minutes. Rested dough rolls out without fighting back.

Assemble

Preheat the oven to 350°F and oil a sheet pan.

Divide the dough in two. Roll the first piece out to fit the pan and lay it in.

Spread the cooled filling evenly over it.

Roll out the second piece and lay it over the top, pressing the edges to seal.

Score the top into squares with a sharp knife, cutting through the top layer only. Scoring before baking is what lets you cut clean portions afterward — do it after and the pastry shatters.

Brush with beaten egg yolk.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until deep golden.

Let it settle for 15 minutes before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature.